Scotland’s coastline shifts from sandy coves to rocky outcrops to dramatic sweeping beaches. One of the best ways to experience the variety that Scotland’s coasts have to offer is to complete the famous North Coast 500. The North Coast 500 is aptly named. It consists of 500 miles round Scotland’s northern coast, starting and finishing in Inverness. It can be completed by vehicle or bike, and will be a completely different experience for every traveller.
What are my options for transport?
The classic – Car: We could hide out from the rain and the midges, get from place to place fairly quickly, and not have to worry about getting through the narrow, winding roads. We were able to bring heavier camping equipment and our little luxuries along the way without the worry of carrying it that often comes along with hiking and cycling.
Popular but impractical – Motorhome: Whilst a lot of people choose this option, it causes real problems on the route. We witnessed a lot of jams caused by large motorhomes meeting head-to-head on roads never designed for such large vehicles.
Sustainable, slow travel – bicycle: Friends of mine have completed the North Coast 500 this way and really enjoyed it. By cycling you feel more connected to the landscape around you and are experiencing the route in a way that leaves less of an impact in the long run. You’ll need to consider your fitness level, comfort in cycling on winding roads, and be prepared to take longer for your trip.
The wildcard – motorbike: Along the way, we noticed groups of bikers flying round corners and over hills. With the speed of a car and the freedom of a bicycle, this looked like a really exciting way to experience the route. However, this way requires a confident and experienced motorcyclist due to the blind corners and hidden drops.
How long should I take for the North Coast 500?
This really depends on your budget, your mode of transport, and what you’d like to see and do on your journey. At minimum, I would give it 5 days for a whistlestop tour. This does mean you’ll need to drive rather than cycle, and you’ll be spending a lot of hours each day behind the wheel rather than exploring each area. If you’re driving, ideally take 7-10 days. This means you can take your time, enjoying the scenery, hidden gems, and maybe even take a side trip or two.
When should I take the trip?
You could really go at any time of year but I would recommend early summer or early autumn. This means you get the win-win of warmer weather, minimal midges (the Scottish version of the mosquito – smaller but much more annoying), and skipping the school holiday crowds.
My recommendations for the North Coast 500
East coast
The East Coast is generally the least exciting section but it does have some cultural highlights along the way.
Inverness
The route starts in Inverness, a town right on the river Ness, close enough to the famous Loch Ness for a visit.
Where to stay: Heathmount Hotel.
I stayed here after my first marathon. After a day of running (and eventually shuffling) along the rainy banks of Loch Ness, this place was a haven. I recovered that evening by sitting on a plush carpet in the cozy attic room whilst watching a cheesy romcom, consuming the most needed room service sauvignon blanc and apple crumble and custard of my life, as the sky darkened and the raindrops streaked down the window.
Dunrobin Castle
The whitewashed walls and spiralling turrets make this castle feel like something out of a fairytale. I would highly recommend a stop here to stroll the manicured sea-view gardens and explore the grand rooms within.
John O’Groats
John O’Groats is the northeastern point of the UK. This is a wonderful opportunity to take a break, get a couple of photos with the famous sign, and appreciate how far you’ve already come.
North coast
Thurso
If surfing is your thing, this is a great opportunity to take a few hours to experience some of the most northerly waves of the UK. Thurso is the cold water surfing capital of the UK and is known for its fast, powerful barrel waves that attract experienced surfers from all over. Whilst usually attracting more experienced surfers, there are options for beginner lessons with North Coast Watersports. Prefer a quick dip in the sea and a couple hours on the beach, Dunnet Beach is the place to be (though in my experience, some very cold water for a sea swim!)
Where to stay: Braeside Retreats comes highly recommended across the board with their glamping pods and hot tubs.
Durness
On your way into Durness, take a quick trip to Smoo Cave, a spectacular sea cave hidden away in the cliffs containing a hidden waterfall. We approached the cave on a rainy day when the waterfall and it only made the waterfall even more impressive.
To escape the rain, we stopped by Cocoa Mountain, a local treasure with rich hot chocolate to warm up your body and your soul. I would highly recommend dropping in for some hot chocolate and to take away a few tasty treats for the road.
This is the first part of the route with great hiking side quests if you have the time. Ben Hope is Scotland’s northernmost Munro. A little off route, this is an ideal opportunity to bag an otherwise exceptionally remote munro with a magnificent viewpoint on a clear day.
West coast
This is where the landscape becomes increasingly dramatic. There are further hiking side quests such as Conival and Ben More Assynt, and the white sand beaches are practically deserted.
From Ullapool, you can take a whale watching tour. We were a little late in the day but this experience is still very much on my list for next time I’m in the area.
Further hiking opportunities appear in Torridon, where you have the opportunity to climb some of Scotland’s most dramatic mountains, with their rugged ascents and fearsome ridges. This section also involves the most exciting section of road on the route: the Bealach Na Bah descent into Applecross, a gorgeous bay with a pub, a tea room and serene wildlife.
Where to stay: Applecross Inn. Following a failed attempt to join the 4x4s in wildcamping in a little hatchback, we were saved by the local hospitality at this cozy pub. The evening involved fresh lobster and crab, lots of wine, and a roaring fireplace. This was a clear highlight of the trip.
Around this area, you also have the opportunity to venture over to the Isle of Skye for their sparkling fairy pools and striking landscapes.
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