The West Highland Way is a famous 96 mile walking route from Milngavie, a small town just north of Glasgow, to Fort William. The route spans rolling green hills in the lowlands, the bonny banks of Loch Lomond and exposed heather-filled moors, before finally reaching the foot of Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest peak. 

The West Highland Way is also a good choice for a first time multi-day hike. Scotland is a safe country and the walk is well populated with accommodation options for every budget and preference. The route is well known and the people are friendly and willing to help in any crisis. 

When to hike?

The West Highland Way can be hiked any time of year really but my recommendation would be late spring to early summer (May-June) or the early Autumn (Sept). This way you miss the highest crowds and prices as well as the worst of the midges, a small but surprisingly painful creature that swarms our hiking trails a few months every year. 

As an experienced hiker, looking for a challenge, you may choose to hike the route in winter for peaceful views of snowcapped mountains and icy lakes. However, the weather in Scotland is unpredictable so you run the risk of disappointment of rain, gales, and zero snow…

Before the trail

As the trail becomes wilder as you head north I would recommend travelling Northbound. This means starting in Milngavie. To get here, first travel to Glasgow, an underrated city in the west of Scotland. I would recommend staying here the night before so you can take stock of your kit and pick up anything you’ve forgotten. 

Where to stay: 

Cost-conscious camper: Glasgow Youth Hostel: Located in the west end, a popular area for food, drink and the Kelvingrove museum.

Mid-ranger: Alamo Guest House: Also in a great west end location for the Kelvingrove museum and park. Antique furnishing and complimentary breakfast for a little extra comfort before your walk starts.

Bougie backpacker: Kimpton Blythswood Square: A 5-star landmark hotel and spa for a luxurious stay before you venture out into the wilderness.

As this was my first multi-day hike, I chose to use a baggage transfer service. This meant I could camp without the weight of my camping gear. Having thru-hiked with all my kit on later, longer hikes, I’m glad for this experience to ease into walking for multiple days. Carrying all your kit brings a strong sense of accomplishment and flexibility but a day pack means you can relax into the walk, enjoying the sites without over-straining your body. It does mean you need to plan out your itinerary ahead of time, knowing where you’ll rest your head at the end of each day. I used Ginger Routes and my bag was reliably waiting for me at the end of each day. 

To get from Glasgow to Milngavie, you have a few options: A commuter train out the city; a taxi; or purchasing the transfer with your baggage transfer. 

Section one: Milngavie to Drymen (1 day)

Starting out from Milngavie, you’ll amble through a scenic country park where, in the late spring, the banks on either side become a sea of bluebells. The trail sidles the ruins of an ancient castle, and then opens up into grassy farmland towards Glengoyne distillery, where you can take a break to see how Scottish whisky is brewed and buy a dram for later on the trail. 

The route passes a small pub and cafe where you can greet the friendly miniature horses and continues to the village of Drymen. After a fairly relaxed first day on trail, you can rest here, set up your tent and have a leisurely dinner at the Drymen Inn. 

Where to stay: 

Cost-conscious camper: Drymen Camping: Out in the countryside before you reach the village for a peaceful first night.

Mid-ranger: Spend your first night in a glamping pod at Drymen Camping.

Bougie backpacker: Drymen Inn: A traditional pub hotel with Scottish food, beers and breakfast.

Section two: Loch Lomond (2 days)

Leaving Drymen, you pass over Conic Hill, an iconic viewpoint over the loch, and descend into the small town of Balmaha where you can fill up on coffee or ice cream before beginning your loch-side journey. The trail along Loch Lomond takes approximately two days, weaving between trees and rocky beaches. Once the trail leaves the shore, the views will open up ahead and you’ll get your first taste of the highlands.

Where to stay (halfway):

Cost-conscious camper: There are basic campsites along the loch with waterfront camping. I’d recommend Sallochy Campsite for the waterfront campsites but book early if hiking in peak season. 

Mid-ranger: Ben Lomond Bunkhouse

Bougie backpacker: Rowardennan Lodges

Where to stay (north of Loch Lomond):

For each budget, Beinglas Campsite is your best bet here. It has a range of accommodation options for every budget, from campsites to bell tents to chalet rooms.

Section three: Invernarnan to Tyndrum (1 day)

Misty mountains and green glens greet you on your first taste of the highlands. You’ll view the Falls of Falloch and smell the pine forests that cover large swathes of this area. There’s the option to drop down into Crianlarich for lunch or a small restock, or to continue straight on to Tyndrum for the night.

Tyndrum is a small village but well-known in the Scottish hiking community for its amenities after a long day of hiking. The Green Welly Stop is a great place to stock up for the next few days, and the Real Food Cafe is famous for its fish and chips, eaten by the roaring fireplaces. 

Where to stay:

Cost-conscious camper: By The Way Campsite has affordable camping options with showers, a drying room and bunks for the extra rainy nights.

Mid-ranger: If you’re looking for something a little different, By The Way Campsite has Hobbit Huts available with TVs, space heaters and a kettle. 

Bougie backpacker: Continue on the 7 miles to Bridge of Orchy (or 9 miles to Inveroran if you’re up for a big day of walking).

Section four: Tyndrum to Kingshouse (1-2 days)

Leaving Tyndrum, the trail skirts between mountains and the west highland railway line before reaching Bridge of Orchy, a great place to stop for some lunch. Many people choose to skip Tyndrum to stay here at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel.

From the Bridge of Orchy, you’ll join the old military road, an ancient remnant from the Romans, all the way Inveroran where you have the option to stop in for a dram at the Walkers Bar at the Inveroran Hotel or to stay for the night. 

Between Inveroran and Kingshouse sits Rannoch Moor, an exposed and remote wilderness area. Heather rustles in the breeze as it funnels through the gaps in the surrounding peaks. 

Where to stay:

Cost-conscious camper: Wild camping is possible behind the Kingshouse Hotel. 

Mid-ranger: Glencoe Mountain Resort offers glamping pods or camping overlooking Buchaille Etiive Mor. You can even take a ride on the ski lift for a view over the valley.

Bougie backpacker: Kingshouse Hotel

Section five: Kingshouse to Fort William (2 days)

Follow the valley for a little while until you reach the foot of the Devil’s Staircase. The switchbacks will take you to the highest point on the trail with breathtaking views of both Buchaille Etive Mor and of the Mamores range. This is a good point to take a break and reflect on how far you’ve come before making your way down to Kinlochleven.

Where to stay:

Cost-conscious camper to mid-ranger: Blackwater Hostel offers bunk rooms, clamping pods and camping right on route.

Bougie backpacker: Highland Getaway

The final day of hiking takes you through dense forests and along paths with views of Ben Nevis. The glen is beautiful and is a wonderful day to round out the trail. Reaching town, you have the opportunity to take a photo with the bronze end marker and to celebrate completing the trail. 

Where to stay:

Cost-conscious camper: Glen Nevis Campsite: Camping and glamping pods are available in the glen with views of Ben Nevis.

Mid-ranger: Ben Nevis Inn: Views of the mountain and glen, with a restaurant on site.

Bougie backpacker: The Grange B&B, located in Fort William for easy access to the train station and local restaurants.

After the trail

Take a break and congratulate yourself on your achievement in hiking the West Highland Way. The Glen Nevis Inn is a great place for a celebratory dinner after completing your trail and there are many other options for dinner in town. To get back to Glasgow, jump on the West Highland Railway to watch all the scenery you traversed, reversed. Alternatively, if 96 miles wasn’t quite enough, you could always hike Ben Nevis…